Deck Building Knowledge Quiz

Pressure-treated wood runs about 25-40 per square foot installed, so a basic 12x16 deck lands around 5,000-12,000. Composite boards, railings, stairs, and permits push that higher.

Composite runs roughly 40-60 per square foot installed versus 25-40 for wood, about 50-100% more upfront. In exchange it needs no staining or sealing and can last 25-plus years versus 10-15 for treated wood.

Size and height: larger footprints, multi-level designs, stairs, and tall elevated decks need more footings, joists, and railing, plus engineered structural work. Material choice and how accessible the site is also matter.

Each concrete footing with a pier runs roughly 100-300, and a 12x16 deck needs 6-9 of them depending on frost depth and soil. Poor soil or deep frost lines add excavation and inspection cost.

Wood needs power washing, staining, and sealing every 1-3 years and typically lasts 10-15 years. Composite costs more upfront but skips most maintenance and lasts 25-plus years, which often makes it cheaper over the life of the deck.

When budget is the priority, you like the natural look, and you are willing to maintain it. Treated wood is also the standard framing material even under composite boards, so it never fully goes away.

When you want low maintenance, live in a wet or humid climate, or plan to stay long-term. Composite resists rot, splinters, and insects, but it can get hot underfoot in direct sun.

Composite or PVC decking with hot-dipped galvanized or stainless steel fasteners, because treated wood and plain screws corrode and rot faster with constant moisture. Check the decking's slip resistance when wet too.

Wood is cheapest but high maintenance; composite is mid-priced, low maintenance, and wood-look; PVC is fully plastic, the most moisture-proof, but the priciest and can feel less natural. Match the choice to your climate, budget, and upkeep tolerance.

Think about use first: a grill-and-two-chairs setup fits in about 120 square feet, a table for six needs roughly 200, and entertaining spaces push past 300. Check setbacks and lot coverage rules before sizing.

A contractor's license where required, general liability insurance, workers' compensation, and real experience with local building codes covering frost depth and guardrail heights. Ask for proof of all of it before signing.

Ask about footing depth and type, joist spacing and material, ledger attachment and flashing, railing height and baluster spacing, and whether they pull the permit and schedule the required inspections.

A deck specialist usually knows framing, flashing, and code details better and may be cheaper for a simple deck. A general contractor makes sense when the project also involves doors, a roof, or significant site work.

Permits trigger inspections of the footings, framing, and railings, the parts that fail silently. A permitted deck also protects you at resale and in liability claims if someone is ever injured on it.

Three, and compare more than price: footing plans, joist spacing, fastener type, railing specs, and warranty terms vary a lot between quotes that look similar in dollars.

Utility line locations (call 811 before any digging), property lines and setbacks, HOA rules, and whether the soil is stable enough for footings. A soil test or engineer visit is worth the money for tall or hillside decks.

Material grades and brands, footing and framing details, fastener and flashing specs, railing design, permit fees, cleanup, and a payment schedule tied to inspections. Verbal promises do not hold up later.

Pressure-treated wood carries little beyond the grade stamp, composite brands typically offer 25-year or lifetime warranties on the boards, and the contractor should warranty labor for 1-2 years. Confirm the manufacturer warranty gets registered.

Visit completed or in-progress jobs, ask for 3-5 references, verify license and insurance, and look at how they handle flashing and fasteners, the details that determine how long the deck actually lasts.

Typically a footing inspection before concrete is poured, a framing inspection before decking goes down, and a final inspection. Confirm the contractor schedules them and that the municipality signs off before final payment.

Attaching the ledger board without proper flashing, which is the number one cause of deck rot and collapse. The ledger must be flashed against the house and bolted to the structure, not just nailed through siding.

Low bids usually skip footings by setting blocks on grade, undersize joists, use exterior screws instead of structural fasteners, or skip flashing. All of those failures are invisible once the decking is down.

Permit fees, grading or drainage fixes, a new door or steps to match deck height, railing upgrades, lighting, and staining or sealing for wood. Ask explicitly which of these are inside the quote.

Most jurisdictions require permits for decks over about 30 inches high or attached to the house, and skipping one can mean a tear-down order and trouble at resale. Get the rule in writing from the building department.